With the upcoming move of the Brother DB2-B791-015 edging ever closer it was time to tackle the next big addition to the production facilities roster. Because the new location would afford the Brother ample room for larger and even more complicated endeavors, it was time to build specialized platforms to aid in those excursions. The most important aspect to consider was the height of the tables and the ability to level them with ease. Since building tables would allow us to start from scratch the first thing that was assessed was the height of the tables in relation to the Brothers table-top height. While we did not want the height of the Brothers table-top too high, we did not want the height of the cutting surfaces too low either (to reduce the amount of bending over while cutting and trimming material). These two heights needed to be seamless across the singular plane so that materials would feed from the machine and so forth with no interruptions - again these two surfaces need to be the same height. At the max, the Brother looks as if it will go no higher than a 33″ bed/table-top height, this is due to comfort and tactics when actually sitting at the table and sewing (not to do with the tables ability to adjust further - that, it will do). The tables themselves could have easily gone higher, but 33″ is still good, we’re gaining about 2″ from the last set up at this rate. In order to ensure that the tables (two for cutting and feeding, one being the actual table-top of the Brother DB2-B791-015) would all be level throughout their tops, it was necessary to build adjustment into the design of the tables frames/legs. This was done by employing leveling mounts which would serve as the feet of the tables, and could/can be adjusted with a 5mm Allen wrench to dial in the height (The particular levellers used here are Häfele base levellers which you may need to track down via your local architectural design firm). Lastly, the other reason that having the tables as close to perfectly level was so that when the two cutting mats butt up to each other, it will be as near seamless as possible (any discrepancy here will result in small divots where the blade of a knife or cutting wheel wont reach, and you will always be reminded of this while you sit snipping tiny little sections of uncut material).

The next consideration after height and the ability to level to the smallest microns, would be to have the tables tops the most efficient size for your type of work. This can be very arbitrary, everyone will have their different set of standards to determine such a value, which is why sail making shops have the most unusually large tables, really just stages, or have their sewing machines sunken into the floor so that all of the walking surface is also cutting surface. In the case of the Brother, the table sizes were determined by how large the two largest cutting mats are. The two mats measure about 36.25″X60.25″ - with that in mind the tables combined needed to be at least 72.5″X60.25″. Which brings in to question why there are two tables* - the feeding issue. One of the greatest advantages of having space to sew, is to have table-tops to catch and receive the material as it feeds through the machine, instead of dropping onto the floor and pulling it erratically, or bunching up against a wall. Two tables would allow this excess to easily spread about, but also, by staggering the two tables, the table of the machine could be nestled into them, so that there was also surface area to the left of the machines table to hold up large pieces before stitching took place. Again, imagine making a sail, there is a lot of fabric that needs to be supported as evenly as possible in relation to where it is fed through the machine, thus in sail shops the machine table-tops are completely integrated with the height of surrounding platforms. The two table-tops would have a staggered stance, each having 20″ of excess to cradle the left side of a sewing table, whilst the neighboring table took up what was behind the machine head. Of course the tables could be much much larger, but because there will be little, to no, walking on them, there is no reason to make them so large that you can not reach the center with a cutting device.

The last major consideration was how much of the table actually contacted the machine, and/or it’s stand. The Brother DB2-B791-015’s stand happens to stick out from underneath the table-top by about 2″, therefore even with the stand completely against it’s neighbor, the table-top does not span across the distance (a gap is left). So these tables would be built with a 3″ over-hang on each end, this would allow them to completely meet the table-top of the Brother, and hopefully others in the future (These tables were based on this tutuorial, and still await lower shelving units).

Enough said? - A quick rundown of the overall dimensions and final materials list:

Two tables, each, -37″widthX80″lengthX32″-33.25″height. (with the Brothers table-top the length comes to 100″):
-1lb of 1.25″ wood screws
-1lb of 3″ wood screws
-two 37″X80″ OSB table-tops (cut from two 4′X8′ sheets)
-four 84″ 2×4’s
-eight 12′ 2×4’s (cut dow to sixteen 72″ lengths for ease of transport)
-eight Häfele base levellers.

*Unfortunately or fortunately, economy and means of production also play a large factor in how these things are built (were built). Possibly in the future a custom piece of lumber will be ordered that is just one single piece of the appropriate dimensions, until then, there is a lot of sewing to be done to raise the funds. Bear in mind also, that at a sail shop, they are not concerned with cutting mats (that would be one huge cutting mat), because they have more sophisticated ways of cutting their patterns - like; CNC machines & BlueStreakII’s

It is official, July 30th 2008 marks the Needlefeed’s first birthday. It has been a long time coming with some up’s and some down’s. Or in’s and out’s - as the Needlefeed is no advocate of hierarchies. A little re-cap of some of the things we have seen this year are: 3-phase 220volt motors, treadle modifications, thread tension issues & re-issues, double tap feed mechanisms at Delta, service with a smile at Rivera’s, “messenger” bags, walking bags, cycling booties, Brother DB2-B791-015 instruction manuals & parts books, etc., etc. Of course the list goes on and on, and hopefully in the future it will be proven that this topic is in fact inexhaustible. With more shoes on the horizon we will see the Needlefeed move into other topics of hand stitching patterns and the trials and tribulations of stitching by hand versus machine. Another additional topic will be the Needlefeed’s soon to come new headquarters. Yes, the rumors are true Needlefeed.com will be moving facilities to a new sight where dedicated table space will be available only to sewing affairs. In fact with this new horizon looming there may even be Needlefeed affiliates in the mix, but that insider news will not be released to the public as of yet, there are still contractual negotiations to be finalized. Some other ideas floating off in the ethos for the Needlefeed (and please don’t be bashful about sharing your opinions on this) are a Needlefeed shop where people can attain some of the products featured on this site, proceeds will go to maintenance of the site, the machines, and of course to making more product. Ideally the shop would be an auction based market place, however due to technicalities it may begin as a set price menu. Either way, the shop will remain via Interwebs, there will be no store front until much much further notice (meanwhile global shipping is available). Also, the Needlefeed now accepts submissions of articles, essays, and anything-industrial.sewing.machine-related, through text documents. We will be setting up a more user friendly email system for this*, but if you have added insight to increasingly complex topics on/of industrial sewing machines, and a critical mind for how sewing can be a very broad topic please send a note (via the comments box for now) and let us know what you have. Please bear in mind that the writings will be weighed heavily, so please send your best work.

Needlefeed, a year in pictures; highlights, outtakes, and sneak peeks.

Of course Needlefeed.com would like to thank all of those who have supported, added comments & wisdom, and in general taken an interest in this somewhat wonkey thing. The site would not exist without all of your patronage. Also, without a doubt, the greatest and largest thanks go to the Brother.

*Done. If anyone would like to submit written essays, writings, or any other type of critical text on the topic of industrial sewing machines, and/or industrious sewing, and/or preferred industrial machine shops in cities/locations that the Needlefeed has not been able to report on - please send it to needlefeed at gmail dot com. All contributors will be credited if desired. Thank you.

Apologies all around in advance for not addressing industrial sewing machine issues lately. For now the Brother DB2-B791-015 has been a workhorse with close to no bugs for working out, which makes for a pretty bland series of product entries (posts), instead of interesting investigations of these dense contraptions. Fortunately, older topics have not been forgotten: we will still revisit the thread discussion soon, as many images have been taken to help with the visual aid side of things, and then after that, hopefully it will be time to get to the other two sections of the Brother DB2-B791-015 parts book. Also there may be updates on industrial sewing machine shops in the Chicago (IL) area, with possible new information leaking from these retailers, into the category of Brother Feet.

In the meantime, some passing thoughts on needle gauge and heavy vs. light-weight vs. heavy vs. light-weight.

First off, two new packs of needles were purchased recently, a set of #19 gauge needles and a set of #21 gauge needles. The #19 needles were purchased to use with the Gütermann “heavy duty” & silk threads (used for the recent pair of jeans) - these #19’s are still in the box. The #21 needles were more or less purchased for the same reason, except they would be used to test out the heaviest weight Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread, which we have never had much luck with here - around the DB2, or with the old Singer 600WI. So, with the heavy thread in mind, and the new #21 needles, a material situation had to come about. With the last two Dow bags (the “messenger”-style and the walking bag) finalized, ideas for the next generation of bag brought up a good scenario to test the new needles and thread to see what the Brother would do. Is everyone still on target? - As this conversation is going back and forth between heavy thread/needle, and older bags making way for new ideas (which will test this needle-thread combo). The new bag will be calling for a shoulder strap system, that will hopefully use “dive” belt webbing as the main strap. However, “dive” belt webbing has provided many obstacles in the past. Unlike seat-belt webbing which has become somewhat of a standard material for shoulder straps in “messenger” bag production circle’s - “dive” belt webbing is much more dense, and stiff. Such, could be why seat-belt webbing has become the norm for these recent bags, it is soft and flexible, and easy to work with*. But “dive” belt webbing seems to have better load distribution qualities, and is also inherently stronger, and can withstand much more abrasion - thus it may be a better material for the job. The difference being (to bring the mono-conversation back) it takes more umph (technical term) to sew through “dive” belt webbing. This is where the #21 needles come in, surely, the Brother will be able to feed the material’s thickness, but it is the puncturing, and thread allowances that have hampered the process in the past. Also, the needles added thickness will provide a more accurate feed, as the needle will flex less when pulling the material, so there will be less lag time (and more consistent stitching). Now, to the thread side of things, in the past when trying to (always un-succesfully) sew through “dive” belt webbing, we have used the Gütermann “extra strong” thread, and inevitably it would break at some point in the run of the stitch, but not due to core strength, but rather abrasion, from being passed through such a dense, coarse, stiff material, the strap’s fibers are more than likely actually harder - equalling rougher areas to pass the thread through. Anywho, the Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread was chosen, this is/was the densest/hardest thread available (at the moment) and would ideally be more abrasion resistant (imagine a climbers top-rope hanging from a mountain rubbing against the rock). Long story short, success, the coupling of the needle and the thread has alieviated any pains or concerns, the pass took two layers of “dive” belt webbing, plus two layers of vinyl coated nylon. Whilst not the most exciting thing or controversial result, it seemed like news around here.

Another topic, about heavy vs. light-weight came up after making the walking bag, and wondering what it would take to make something very light-weight. Obviously light materials would be a start, however this means a slight re-tooling of the Brother, the challenge is then, how light can it go? For the most part industrial sewing machines only do one thing well, and that is whatever it has been delegated to do. But, maybe the Brother could sew some light nylons too with a little attention to it’s internals - needle-bar-height adjustments, a finer feed-dog, and maybe even a different hook. The lesson being proposed, when do you decide to move to lighter materials, and does the machine influence a resistance to this?

Your patience is appreciated, and concerns heard.

*One thing to note, is that the companies that almost strictly use seat-belt webbing, usually incorporate some kind of additional padding system, what this is to accomplish can be mysterious (old-timers will probably tell you this is unnecessary hoo-ha), it could be to distribute load more effectively due to the very pliable nature of seat-belt webbing which could use added stiffness, or maybe it is just to be gentler on the body?